Flying.

Kicking it old-school with Dr. Cullinane in the VIP lounge at Cebu-Mactan airport.

Sadly, here in Manila, where I’m waiting for my flight to Jakarta, the accommodations are a bit more basic. But I can’t win every time.

It’s been a short & sweet visit to Manila. Catching up with friends, visiting archives and libraries here, and making arrangements for my longer stay next month. Not overly much to report. (The greatest excitement for me was the scandalously cheap prices at the National Historical Institute. Their press once published bound collections of materials from the Spanish period, but hardly anyone here reads Spanish anymore, so they practically give them away. I returned to my friend’s in Mandaluyong laden with rare books from the 1930s and ’40s, laughing about how their patrimony was being sold to foreigners for a few hundred pesos.)

I’m still working with my images and recordings from Zamboanga, and I’ll try posting a few little slideshows in the next days, pending broadband availability..

I’ve been a bit out of touch – internet access has been either difficult or unappealing lately, and my phone got stolen on the boat from Cagayan to Cebu, so twitter’s out for now too.
But I just figured I’d drop a line. I’ll be arriving in Manila Wednesday night, and should have better access.

CDO

The “road” to Carupay. More on this later…

I’m back in Cagayan de Oro, leaving for Cebu tomorrow evening. It was another eventful trip, but I’m too burnt out to write much more. So consider this the not-dismembered-in-motorbike-crash-or-kidnapped post, and I’ll fill in the details tomorrow.

Breakdancers, rocking it for the camera on Dipolog beach.

I’m leaving again for the mountains early tomorrow morning. This time, I’ll be well and truly off the grid — 12 km hike in, no cellphone signal — so I’ll be out of touch for at least the next 2 days.

Geeky digression: the only Tagalog word, to my knowledge, that has become completely integrated into English is bundok, aka Boondock, which means mountain. During the Philippine-American War (and ever since) the mountainous hinterlands were tactical centers for resistance. When asked where the rebels were, locals would respond “sa bundok,” which entered military slang, and from there vernacular english.

A Bridge Unbuilt

*[Slightly under-edited sneak preview of a much larger project]*

Barangay Miatan is located deep in the hills outside of Katipunan, Zamboanga del Norte. The entrance to the barangay can be reached only by foot or the most rugged of motor vehicles, a long trip along jaw-rattling dirt and gravel roads lined with paddies where farmers transplant rice by hand and plow with the help of caribous.
Reaching the center of the community is even more difficult. A dilapidated pedestrian bridge is suspended over the Dicayo river. The only other option is straight through the river.
We came up in a decommissioned military jeep, and only just made it across. About a third of the way through, water started flooding in through the door, nearly reaching my seat and sending me scrambling to keep my camera and computer dry. Halfway across, the jeep stalled, and I thought for a minute we were going to have to swim, until the motor coughed back to life.
Remote barangays like Miatan have suffered the brunt of human rights abuses from the government and military. During the Marcos regime, this small Subanon community of 240 households was home to a military detachment, whose abuses drove many to the hills or the city. Women were harassed, locals recall, and farmers treated like slaves.
The situation improved somewhat after the fall of Marcos, when President Aquino made moves to demilitarize the countryside — but the hills of Katipunan remained hotspots of insurgency and retaliatory military strikes.
In 2003, local peace consultations began, with the support of the Revolutionary Workers Party – Mindanao (RPMM), a Marxist rebel group. The RPMM promised to lay down their weapons if the government would take steps to meet the needs of impoverished barangays in Mindanao. A ceasefire was negotiated, and by all accounts the RPMM has held up their end of the deal.
In exchange, the government was supposed to fund development projects identified by communities themselves. After local consultations held in 2005, the central government promised 5 million pesos for infrastructure projects in each barangay involved in the peace process. The people of Miatan decided their first priority was to build a submarine bridge across the Dicayo. The bridge is a key element in their other plans as well, providing a farm-to-market road to expand economic opportunities, and making it possible to develop Morias falls as an eco-tourism destination.
Three years later, the money still hasn’t come. “The budget was suddenly gone,” says Haydee Lodovece, head of a local people’s organization. “Five million is five million. It’s not easily forgotten.”
People here have a way of laughing when telling these kinds of stories. But it’s clear they’re frustrated, especially as they find themselves squeezed tighter and tighter by the rising cost of food and fuel. By neglecting to meet their commitments in the peace process, the government is playing a dangerous game. Unrest in Mindanao has always been, fundamentally, about the central government’s failure to deal fairly with the people. Every time this happens, peace workers say, it gets harder and harder to bring people together to talk about peace.
With less food on the table every day, says Ike de los Reyes, an RPMM leader, the poor are more inclined to return to armed struggle. Peace talks have not brought them enough to survive. “The people,” he says. “Cannot lose anything but their sufferings and their hunger.”

Hero

Barangay Captain Bonifacio Cabasag, elected local official for Bgy. Miatan, Zamboanga del Norte.

With gold prices skyrocketing, mining companies are eager to expand their operations into previously untapped reserves. One such area is Barangay Miatan. Canadian firm Toronto Ventures Incorporated sent engineers and company officials to survey the area and negotiate an agreement with the locals. The people of Miatan, Subanon tribal people, are eager for economic opportunities, but aware of the human rights abuses and environmental destruction TVI has been responsible elsewhere, the community knew this was not the kind of development they wanted.
Company officials then went to Cabasag, offering him a bribe worth five times his annual salary to push the paperwork. Cabasag refused. “It affects more than just me,” he said.

Morias Falls

Barangay Miatan, Katipunan Municipality, Zamboanga del Norte.
(The picture I wish I had was me, wading through waist-deep water, holding my camera bag above my head. But, for obvious reasons, no such picture exists. I am playing with my lens cap in this one, though)

UPDATE: ha! how’s this for a diptych:

(14 years ago, Yellowstone National Park)

Coming down the mountain

I’m back in the city again (Dipolog) after visiting communities up in the mountains. I’m a bit worn out, especially after the trip down.
I tagged along with people from 2 local NGOs working on implementing livelihood programs as part of the GRP-RPMM peace process. On the way back, we caught a ride down to the city with most of the barangay, since they were going to a wedding in town.

(This is after 4 of us got off. And all the people standing around will get back on)

We were fortunate not to have to walk, but it was a pretty grueling trip. I counted 34 people in the truck, (from grandmothers to babies to one foreigner wishing her legs were about 6 inches shorter) plus two terrified pigs and a chicken.

I’m leaving tomorrow for Zamboanga del Norte, and I’ll be in very remote areas for much of the next 6 days. I’ll do the best I can with blogging and email, but may not have much internet access until the 18th.

A series in five parts.