Carcar, Cebu

I’m not entirely certain what winding mental path led me to the rectory of St. Catherine’s Church in Carcar, Cebu. Some of it has to do with reading for a course on literature of social movements in the Philippines — it was to Carcar that the Visayan revolutionary Leon Kilat went seeking reinforcements for his stand against the Spanish army in Cebu city, only to be betrayed and murdered.

And I’m thinking, more generally, about where historical research and investigative journalism intersect and overlap. More on that later, perhaps. In the meantime, some photos from this summer:

Naked Saints

Fallen Angel #1

Fallen Angel #3

Fallen Angel #2

How does Thailand get away with it?

In the latest in a long string of outrageous human rights and civil liberties violations perpetrated by the Thai government, political scientist Giles Ji Ungpakorn is facing prison for lese majeste — insulting the king — in a recent article about the 2006 Thai coup.

You can read the offending paragraphs here and judge for yourselves.

He’s not the only writer to face such charges — an aspiring Australian novelist was just sentenced to three years for the same offense. But there’s something particularly chilling about this case. Ji Ungpakorn is an academic of international stature. Chulalongkorn, the university where he is a lecturer, is (along with Thamassat) one of the top two universities in Thailand, his work is read and cited by academics across the globe, and he is the son of national hero Dr. Puey Ungpakorn.

There doesn’t seem to be any element of “let’s see if we can get away with this.” Instead, it seems to be a clear and deliberate message to critics that prominence is no protection.

Usually the media’s all over this kind of stuff. But I’ve seen very little about this case. In Thailand, it’s explained by a call from the Minister of Justice to refrain from covering lese majeste cases. With the international media, it’s a little bit more complicated. [Read more...]

Juana Change

I’ve been a bit out of the Philippines loop this past month, so I just now heard about Juana Change’s Youtube channel, which is making a huge splash in the Philippines right now (thanks Noah) — the Youtube view counts may not be all that high, but the videos have been replayed on major news networks.

The videos, four so far, are in heavy Taglish, and probably make no sense without translation and explanation of specific cultural references. (Someone should get on this, and it is NOT gonna be me, I already have WAY too much on my plate as it is). But trust me, they’re hilarious.

The video below, for example, tackles Charter Change, known as Cha-Cha — attempts by politicians to change the current constitution (which was put into place following the popular uprising that overthrew the dictator Ferdinand Marcos). Among other things, Cha-Cha might make it possible to extend much-reviled current President Gloria Macapagal Arroyo’s term beyond 2010 (the current constitutional limit) and is widely viewed as a power grab by Arroyo and her political allies.

Juana Change takes on corruption, power grabs, brain drain, political assassinations and much more in just a few minutes, and calls on viewers to reengage with politics.

Even if you don’t get the language or the political context, I still think it’s a powerful example of how social media and satire can be used to send a political message to a wide audience.

Pyramids, home.

On my last day in Egypt, I finally made it to the pyramids at Giza. (I had seen them on the way to an interview, but only through the window of a moving car, which doesn’t quite do them justice.)

Great Pyramid of Giza

Sphinx

The whole scene is a rather unpleasant mix of corrupt police, touts, and tour busses, but the pyramids themselves, somehow, are magnificent and massive enough to stand above it all.

Giza Necropolis

Giza

I got back to California this afternoon, and am busy adapting to a 10 hour time change, long hot showers, and cars that stop for me when I want to cross the street.

The first completed clip…

I haven’t been posting lately, largely because I’ve been holed up working on the tax collectors project.
Here’s one clip from the project, which shows tax strike leader Abdel Qader Nada explaining some of the conditions that pushed real estate tax collectors to launch a (successful!) strike last year.

This video, along with about a dozen others, will be embedded into a multimedia presentation illustrating the history of the strike, and the subsequent formation of the first independent labor union Egypt has seen in 50 years.


Egyptian Tax Collectors: Working Conditions from Isabel Esterman on Vimeo.

For more background information on the Tax Collectors, check out the blog of Hossam, who I’ve been working with.

Cairo

Views from Al-Azhar Park
Cairo

Al-Azhar Park

Cairo

Free Union Activists

Real Estate Tax Collectors office, Embaba, Giza.
Real Estate Tax Collector

Mervat

Embaba Tax Collector's Office

Cairo

I arrived in Cairo last night, exhausted but well. More later.