Walls come down

Mohammed Mahmoud

Demonstrators stand atop a partially dismantled concrete barrier across downtown Cairo’s Mohammed Mahmoud Street. However, with new walls being erected around the nearby Ministry of Interior, the title of this post might better be …and more walls go up.

Tahrir Square cleared

Tahrir Square Cleared by Military August 1
These photos are from August 1, but better late than never, right? It was quite difficult to photograph on this day, with foreigners particularly singled out for confiscation of cameras/memory cards. In fact, I myself nearly had my camera taken from me by soldiers—fortunately, a decade of violin lessons left me with an unusually strong grip, so let it never be said that music is a waste of time.

The new Red Line

The conditions left me shooting on the fly or from the hip, so none of these photos are great. But for the sake of posterity, they can be found here.

Sinai

Sinai

I returned to Cairo Tuesday night, after a few days rest on the beach in Sinai. I won’t even pretend to have the background necessary to comment usefully on the recent attacks along the Israeli border. One observation though: during my brief visit, I was struck by both how heavily militarized the region is, and by how completely ineffective that militarization appeared to me to be.

Taking the bus from Cairo to the Red Sea and back, one passes through numerous military checkpoints. However, the only object of these checkpoints, at least that I could discern, was to single out all non-Arab passengers for a passport check. (Which, in my case, consisted of thumbing ineptly through my documents for a minute or two, finding an Egyptian visa from three years ago, and then tossing them back.) I was tempted to ask what they were actually looking for: Dangerous visa-overstayers? Israeli operatives too unsophisticated to travel on false documents?

Like so many things (the US’s TSA, for example, or the fake metal detectors in my Jakarta office), this strikes me as typical security-state mentality—A big show of weaponry and personnel, a flexing of muscles, but no discernible strategy.

Casualties


A protestor injured in Abbaseya gets an IV in a makeshift clinic in the Tahrir Square tent city, on the night of July 23–24.


Another injured protestor convalesces in Tahrir Square. Throughout the night, more and more injured people were carried into the tent city.

More Scenes from Tahrir

Tahrir
A woman sleeps beneath revolutionary graffiti on the Mogamma building.

Revolutionary Graffiti, Tahrir Square
I’ve been told the green lettering reads “revolution,” growing out of the red lettering for “martyrs”

Vendor in Tahrir Square

I really have no idea what to say about this particular fashion statement

Night in Tahrir Square

Neither nightfall, the start of the work week tomorrow, nor stuffy ideas about appropriate children’s bedtimes seem to put a damper on the carnival spirit in Tahrir Square.

 
Night in Tahrir Square

Night in Tahrir Square

Night in Tahrir Square

Tax Collectors en Español

The slideshows of the Tax Collectors strike leaders are now available with Spanish subtitles at Egipte rera la Barricada.

Well done. (¡Muy bien hecho!)

Courageous Women: Mervat Qassem Hilal

I’ve been hard at work making slideshows from interviews and photo sessions Hossam and I did in Egypt, and I’m finally on the home stretch. You can follow my progress on my vimeo account

I think this video is my favorite from the project. In the West, I we’re too often taught to assume that a woman in hijab — an Arab, a Muslim, a wife and a mother — is automatically a victim, passive and oppressed. I wish we got to see more of women like Mervat, who plays an active role in agitating for her own rights and those of her colleagues. She was on the front lines of the struggle to unionize the tax collectors, sleeping on the streets during the strike, facing down government officials, and persevering despite threats against her and her family.

It’s also quite touching to see the support she gets from her husband and son.

Tax Collectors’ Union Gains Recognition

I haven’t been on here much lately, for which I am truly sorry. (Work, chaos, agonizing about the future and arranging a summer position at the Jakarta Post and a research trip to Mindanao, about which more later.)

But I interrupt the silence to announce that the Egypt’s Real Estate Tax Collectors, whose story I’m working on telling in a multimedia package, handed in yesterday the paperwork necessary to formally establish their union — Egypt’s first independent trade union in half a century.

Mabrouk to the Tax Collectors.

And watch this space. The multimedia project — or at least the English-language version of it — will be completed by May 7.

A short break from kvetching.

It seems like most of the people in my life have had to deal with a lot of negativity from me lately. So, to counter it, here’s a short and (thankfully) by no means comprehensive list of things that have made me smile in the last few days:

Breakfast

  • A sesame seed bagel, strong coffee and good orange juice. Still the perfect breakfast; yet somehow the most impossible to obtain outside of the United States. (Mostly, the bagel is the issue. Just poking a hole in bread does not a bagel make, my friends.)
  • A care package from a friend that included, among other things: two pounds of fancy coffee, hello kitty temporary tattoos and a travel pack of tampons. (!?!)
  • The pcij’s list of “Hello Garci” ringtones from 2005. This is why I’ll always love the Philippines, no matter how crazy it makes me. How else can you feel about a society that reacts to a political scandal with a techno remix ringtone? (Tapes were leaked of President Arroyo making a very suspicious phone call to an election commissioner on the eve of her 2004 election. Evidently, the ringtones made were among the top ringtone downloads in the world. “Hello Garci” boom-chikka-boom-boom “Hello, Ma’am”)
  • Being reminded that even though I usually run around like a decapitated chicken , I seem to manage to act like a professional when it counts. I needed to find a quote I was pretty sure was in an interview I did in Mindanao this summer. It was in my notebook, basically legible and properly id’ed, the audio track was noted correctly, matched my handwritten notes, and has pretty decent sound quality.
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