Breakdancers, rocking it for the camera on Dipolog beach.

I’m leaving again for the mountains early tomorrow morning. This time, I’ll be well and truly off the grid — 12 km hike in, no cellphone signal — so I’ll be out of touch for at least the next 2 days.

Geeky digression: the only Tagalog word, to my knowledge, that has become completely integrated into English is bundok, aka Boondock, which means mountain. During the Philippine-American War (and ever since) the mountainous hinterlands were tactical centers for resistance. When asked where the rebels were, locals would respond “sa bundok,” which entered military slang, and from there vernacular english.

A Bridge Unbuilt

*[Slightly under-edited sneak preview of a much larger project]*

Barangay Miatan is located deep in the hills outside of Katipunan, Zamboanga del Norte. The entrance to the barangay can be reached only by foot or the most rugged of motor vehicles, a long trip along jaw-rattling dirt and gravel roads lined with paddies where farmers transplant rice by hand and plow with the help of caribous.
Reaching the center of the community is even more difficult. A dilapidated pedestrian bridge is suspended over the Dicayo river. The only other option is straight through the river.
We came up in a decommissioned military jeep, and only just made it across. About a third of the way through, water started flooding in through the door, nearly reaching my seat and sending me scrambling to keep my camera and computer dry. Halfway across, the jeep stalled, and I thought for a minute we were going to have to swim, until the motor coughed back to life.
Remote barangays like Miatan have suffered the brunt of human rights abuses from the government and military. During the Marcos regime, this small Subanon community of 240 households was home to a military detachment, whose abuses drove many to the hills or the city. Women were harassed, locals recall, and farmers treated like slaves.
The situation improved somewhat after the fall of Marcos, when President Aquino made moves to demilitarize the countryside — but the hills of Katipunan remained hotspots of insurgency and retaliatory military strikes.
In 2003, local peace consultations began, with the support of the Revolutionary Workers Party – Mindanao (RPMM), a Marxist rebel group. The RPMM promised to lay down their weapons if the government would take steps to meet the needs of impoverished barangays in Mindanao. A ceasefire was negotiated, and by all accounts the RPMM has held up their end of the deal.
In exchange, the government was supposed to fund development projects identified by communities themselves. After local consultations held in 2005, the central government promised 5 million pesos for infrastructure projects in each barangay involved in the peace process. The people of Miatan decided their first priority was to build a submarine bridge across the Dicayo. The bridge is a key element in their other plans as well, providing a farm-to-market road to expand economic opportunities, and making it possible to develop Morias falls as an eco-tourism destination.
Three years later, the money still hasn’t come. “The budget was suddenly gone,” says Haydee Lodovece, head of a local people’s organization. “Five million is five million. It’s not easily forgotten.”
People here have a way of laughing when telling these kinds of stories. But it’s clear they’re frustrated, especially as they find themselves squeezed tighter and tighter by the rising cost of food and fuel. By neglecting to meet their commitments in the peace process, the government is playing a dangerous game. Unrest in Mindanao has always been, fundamentally, about the central government’s failure to deal fairly with the people. Every time this happens, peace workers say, it gets harder and harder to bring people together to talk about peace.
With less food on the table every day, says Ike de los Reyes, an RPMM leader, the poor are more inclined to return to armed struggle. Peace talks have not brought them enough to survive. “The people,” he says. “Cannot lose anything but their sufferings and their hunger.”

Morias Falls

Barangay Miatan, Katipunan Municipality, Zamboanga del Norte.
(The picture I wish I had was me, wading through waist-deep water, holding my camera bag above my head. But, for obvious reasons, no such picture exists. I am playing with my lens cap in this one, though)

UPDATE: ha! how’s this for a diptych:

(14 years ago, Yellowstone National Park)

Coming down the mountain

I’m back in the city again (Dipolog) after visiting communities up in the mountains. I’m a bit worn out, especially after the trip down.
I tagged along with people from 2 local NGOs working on implementing livelihood programs as part of the GRP-RPMM peace process. On the way back, we caught a ride down to the city with most of the barangay, since they were going to a wedding in town.

(This is after 4 of us got off. And all the people standing around will get back on)

We were fortunate not to have to walk, but it was a pretty grueling trip. I counted 34 people in the truck, (from grandmothers to babies to one foreigner wishing her legs were about 6 inches shorter) plus two terrified pigs and a chicken.

Telling it like it is

This is a quick-and-dirty little slideshow of Lorena Navarro, at Bankerohan Market in Davao City. She used to grow corn, but the price of fertilizer got too high, and her earnings were to low, so like many farmers, she had to leave the provinces and come to the city to look for work.

“It’s become too difficult to make a living, so many people stopped farming corn and rice,” she told me. “Now they just grow bananas and camote. But do you want to eat just bananas and camote? It that what you want? Look at the poor – fighting here, almost killing each other just to buy some cheap rice.”

When the government subsidized rice ran out at the market, she lost her temper, jumped up on a platform and started shouting against the government, accusing President Arroyo and other officials of failing to take care of the people, of corruption, of having bad policies about fertilizer and other agricultural products. “We’re sick of this,” she says. Sick of waiting in line, sick of hunger. As you can see, she found a pretty receptive audience.

Sorry for lack of subtitles, maybe in the future.

Daily News

– I wrote this on the 2nd, but couldn’t post until now –

A round-up of news from today’s local papers, just to give some context on what this place is like:

  • Rice prices up 10 pesos per kilo in the last week, hitting record highs of 50 pesos in some municipalities. Panic ensuing.
  • Writ of habeus corpus filed on behalf of broadcaster Lex Adonis, after a Davao prison warden refused to release him despite a court order. (Adonis is accused of making unflattering remarks about a local power broker)
  • Update on 255 farmers and their families who have taken refuge in a local gymnasium after fleeing from military operations in Compostela Valley
  • Local government officials in say they don’t know anything about the MILF peace process beyond what they “read in the papers and hear from our constituents.”
  • Update on Zamboanga businessman kidnapped my suspected Abu Sayyaf militants.
  • The military claiming MILF factions are behind a deadly bombing at an airbase in Zamboanga.
  • Still no word on who’s behind sabotage of power lines.
  • Various murders, and helpful advice from vice-Mayor Sara Duterte that pubs and restuarants should “hire more security” promises to look into laws to require frisking all patrons.
  • Proposed fare hikes for public transportation, to make up for increased fuel prices.

Oh…and a local girl won Miss Teen Philippines!

I <3 the Philippines.

Philippines uli

Rice Terrace

Mountain Province, Luzon, Summer 2006

I finally have a confirmed ticket to and from the Philippines this summer. Philippine Airlines certainly made me sweat a bit (I didn’t know until this morning whether I had to be ready to leave on Sunday) but in the end, I got exactly the itinerary I wanted — not bad for an (almost) free ticket.

I should be in Mindanao for June — Davao, Cagayan de Oro, and maybe a brief visit to Zamboanga. Early July in Jakarta, Bandung and maybe Jogjya, back to Manila for the International Conference on Philippine Studies, and then two weeks to do whatever seems most useful/interesting (probably archival research. sigh. I remember when I had other definitions for ‘interesting’). And then…back to grad school.

Get in touch if you’re going to be in or near any of these places! (Except grad school, which I don’t want to hear about.)

In tangentially related news, Philippine human rights monitor Karapatan has just released their human rights report for the first quarter of this year, documenting 96 reported cases of severe human rights violations between January and March, including 13 extrajudicial executions. The report, unfortunately, does not seem to be available online, though I have a pdf I’m happy to pass on. The Inquirer has a summary here, but note they count violations by number of ‘incidents’ rather than number of victims.

The Other Peace Process in Mindanao

While public attention is focused on peace negotiations between the Philippine Government and the Moro Islamic Liberation Front and the Communist Party of the Philippines, a third, much quieter peace process has been underway in Mindanao. Since 2003, the Revolutionary Worker’s Party of Mindanao (Rebolusyonaryang Partido ng Manggagawa ng Mindanao – RPM-M) has been in negotiation with the government to end three decades of conflict.

Mediated by Balay Mindanaw, a local NGO, and conducted locally, transparently, and with the involvement of the affected communities, this “other peace process” is focused on identifying and meeting the needs of villagers before an agreement is signed.

By giving all affected parties ownership over the process, focusing on the needs of communities rather than politicians, and avoiding high-profile international involvement, the process has avoided much of the chaos, violence and media posturing that mars negotiations with the MILF and the CPP. Unfortunately, corruption and insincerity on the part of the government and government contractors (and the unwillingness of international agencies to give aid before a final agreement is brokered) threaten to undermine the process. Villagers often do not see the infrastructure projects they are promised — and every time the government fails to deliver its side of the bargain, it becomes more difficult to reengage communities in the peace talks.

I had the chance to meet with Balay Mindanaw president Kaloy Manlupig earlier this week, and was very impressed by his commitment to the peace process. I’m hoping to visit the affected areas this summer, so more on this later…

(And I’m going to quickly note here that US involvement in the region is, of course, complicating this process as well — partly by pushing the Philippine government further towards a manichaean division between “good guys” and “bad guys” that discourages negotiation with “enemies” and “terrorists” like the RPM-M and the villagers who support them, and partly by threatening to disrupt the ceasefire in its hunt for “terrorists” in Mindanao.)

Photos

Back in Manila. Exhuasted. But happy to be back.

Samal Island, near Davao City, Mindanao

The pictures below are from the 7th anniversary celebration of Davao food not bombs
Mindanaoan Dance
Fire Dancer
Art session for street kids